My Stories
The Polar Bears of Greenland’s Forbidden Coast.
Two days before I’m due to land in Iceland, a brief email from the skipper simply reads:
“There’s a storm brewing in the Denmark Strait, the forecast from Sunday to Tuesday is crap, so to get ahead of it, we’re leaving 24 hours early.”
Panic! Change flights. Cancel meetings. Pack bags. Kiss wife.
30 hours later I land in the pretty little town of Ísafjör∂ur in north west Iceland and go straight to the quayside where the crew are assembled and ready to go – six from Iceland, three from the Faroe Islands, a German, a Finn, a New Zealander and now an Irishman – we slip lines and make for the Denmark Strait.
Survival in Svalbard
I’m in Longyearbyen, Svalbard – 1,200 km north of the Arctic Circle. We are about to set off on a two-day expedition to the abandoned Russian mining town of Pyramiden.
With all the grace of a beached seal, I throw my leg over the snowmobile for the very first time. Ahead of me lie 200 kms of Svalbard tundra. I can’t help wondering if this time I really have bitten off more than I can chew!
Mining for Spies in the Arctic
I was only south of the equator once, in the Arctic. That was back in 2009, when I sailed through the Beagle Channel and around Cape Horn on Skip Novak’s Pelagic Australis. That expedition started and finished in the Chilean Naval town of Puerto Williams on Isla Navarino, the southernmost permanent settlement in the world at 54º56’S, just under 3,900 kms from the South Pole.
Ever since then (and probably because of mild OCD) I’ve always felt the need to complete the set and visit its northernmost equivalent – in 2017 I was fortunate enough to do just that.